Dracaena is loved for its decorativeness and unpretentiousness. It is used to decorate apartments, business and shopping centers, restaurants, and hotel rooms. A mandatory rule for growing: choose a pot for dracaena in which a healthy root system will form.
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Content
Description of Dracaena
Dracaena attracts with its drooping leaves, which differ in width, length and color depending on the species (there are about 60 of them).
In indoor conditions and offices, the following varieties of dracaena are most often grown:
- Fragrant. Its inflorescences smell like freshly mown hay. The leaves of the plant are curved (up to 70 m long, 6-8 cm wide).
- Bent. Has a lush crown with narrow leaves about 15-20 cm long. Can grow up to 3-4 m and have several thin trunks.
- Marginated. Has a red-violet border on the leaf blades. When they fall, scars form on the trunk.
- Deremskaya. The ends of young leaves are initially directed upwards, but gradually begin to hang down.
Dracaena leaves are collected in bunches. Flowers appear once every 8-10 years. Dracaena grows slowly, annual growth is about 30 cm. In room conditions, it can live up to 15 years.
Flowerpot for adult and young dracaenas
The root system consists of a long, downward-growing main root and small lateral branches, for which 2-3 cm of free space up to the walls of the pot is enough to feed.
Therefore, a tall and narrow container is needed for an adult dracaena. In a low pot, the roots will not be able to unfold, and in a too wide one, excess moisture will form, which will cause the soil to become sour, the root to rot, and the stem to soften. It will be difficult to save the plant in this condition.
A small seedling will take root better in a shallow, stable pot up to 15 cm high.
Selection of material
For dracaena, the following pots are purchased:
- Plastic. Convenient, lightweight, affordable. But this material does not “breathe”. With constant excessive soil moisture, the roots may rot even in a container of the appropriate size. The exception is the so-called “medicinal” pot - with a bottom concave inward and holes for air circulation. Plastic containers are not stable enough, so they are not suitable for tall dracaena.
- Ceramic or clay. Natural, porous, unglazed pots. Excess moisture evaporates through their walls, and the roots are saturated with oxygen. Glaze on ceramic containers does not allow air to pass through.
- Fiber ceramic. Lightweight, strong and durable. Eco-friendly material is a mixture of clay, composite and fiber. Resistant to moisture and temperature changes.
Wooden, stone and porcelain containers are also suitable. It is better not to use transparent and metal ones. The former are intended only for plants whose roots photosynthesize (light can damage the roots of dracaena), and the latter do not allow air to pass through and rust.
Optimal size and volume of the pot
The width of the pot is selected based on the height of the plant: for every 40 cm, a container with a width of at least 15 cm is needed. For a tree whose height does not exceed 60 cm, a container with a diameter of up to 22 cm is suitable. The height of the pot depends on the length of the root and the drainage layer. Pots that slightly widen towards the top are considered the most convenient.
It is necessary to pay attention to the quality of the tray provided in the kit. It is better if it is deep and slightly larger than the diameter of the lower part of the pot. It is convenient to drain excess water from such a tray.
Pot placement
Dracaena loves bright diffused light, direct sunlight is contraindicated for it. It tolerates light shading and artificial lighting, but variegated species may lose their contrasting color and become less decorative. It is better to place the pot at a distance of 1-2 m from the southern window, and on the northern side - on the windowsill.
The cost of the pot and where can you buy it
The market offers a variety of pot models to suit every taste.
Beginner gardeners should better go to a specialized store to make a purchase, where they can examine the decor and the inner cavity of the flowerpot, find out its stability, ease of carrying from place to place. The seller will help you choose the product and provide full information about it.
The price of a pot depends on:
- product size;
- manufacturing material (expensive ones include porcelain, fiber ceramics and stone);
- the presence of an internal pot (insert) and an automatic watering system;
- manufacturer (products of the brands Ceccarelli, Villari, ZELENA are expensive).
Transplanting dracaena
The transplant can be planned or urgent.
In the first case, the dracaena is replanted:
- 2-4 weeks after purchase, when the plant adapts to new conditions;
- after a year, making the first transplant of a seedling grown from a cutting;
- every 1-1.5 years, when a properly developing young plant needs to replace the container with a larger one;
- after 2-4 years, replacing the soil with more nutritious soil in adult specimens (over 5 years old).
Reasons
Reasons for urgent transplantation:
- The purchased seedling looks depressed after transportation.
- Roots have appeared in the drainage hole or on the soil surface.
- In the spring and summer period, there is little growth.
- The plant looks unhealthy.
- The soil has become acidic or midges have appeared on its surface.
Tools
To transplant a houseplant, you need:
- pruning shears;
- sharp knife;
- sprayer;
- scoop.
Work is carried out with gloves. The soil and drainage are prepared in advance.
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Timing choice
The most painless period for the plant is the transplantation carried out from the end of February to mid-March. In autumn and winter, this can cause stress and become the reason for the mass wilting of leaves. But if the tree is withering and the condition of its root system is a concern, the work can be carried out at any time of the year.
Soil preparation
Of the ready-made mixtures, the “Palma” soil is suitable for dracaena. It likes light, loose soil with a slightly acidic reaction (pH 5-6).
You can prepare the mixture yourself by taking:
- 2 parts leaf soil (slightly acidic, easily absorbed);
- 2 parts turf soil (light, retains moisture);
- 1 part compost (provides organic nutrition);
- 1 part peat (contains useful microelements and prevents the soil from hardening).
Peat absorbs water and releases it poorly. Therefore, its excessive amount, which is often allowed by some manufacturers of ready-made soils, is undesirable.
For a medium-sized pot about 30 cm high, add 1 handful of coarse sand (it improves the water and air permeability of the soil), as well as a little charcoal (to prevent increased soil acidity).
You can use crushed charcoal for barbecues, and replace sand with expanded clay or vermiculite.
To prevent the development of dangerous bacteria and spores in the soil, it can be disinfected in one of the following ways:
- steam;
- heat for 15 minutes in the oven at +200°C;
- pour a light pink solution of potassium permanganate.
After heat treatment, the beneficial microflora of the soil is restored by adding Fitosporin powder.
Extraction and inspection
The plant is not watered for 2-3 days before transplanting, because the soil is slightly dry. The roots are taken out together with the earth lump.
You need to extract it like this:
- Tilt the pot as low as possible.
- Knock on the bottom and sides. Run a knife along the inner walls of the container.
- Press down on the soil with a wooden stick through the drainage hole.
- Make sure that the root ball has moved from its place.
- Place the palm of one hand at the base of the seedling, holding its trunk between the index and middle fingers, hold, turn and lightly shake the container with the other hand. Take out the contents slowly, without unnecessary effort. Put it in a basin and examine it.
If you find black, softened or hollow roots with an unpleasant smell, remove them with garden shears. Sprinkle the cuts with charcoal powder. After cleaning, you may need a smaller pot.
Methods
Dracaena is replanted in 2 ways:
- Transshipment. The least traumatic method. The roots with a lump of earth are removed from the pot. The lower layer is cleared of drainage elements, the old upper layer of soil is removed. The roots with the soil they hold are placed in the prepared pot. The gaps between them and the walls are filled with earth to the required level. If there is still moisture in the soil, watering immediately after transshipment is not necessary.
- Transplantation with a complete replacement of the soil mixture. This is done when diseased, rotten roots, pests in the soil are detected, or when the soil becomes sour. The roots are cleaned of the old substrate or washed, then inspected and treated for pests and diseases. The root system is placed in a pot straightened, covered with soil and watered.
When replanting in any way, do not use the old drainage. New expanded clay (for young seedlings it is better to take a small fraction) is laid in a layer of 3-5 cm. Dracaena should not be deepened: the root collar should be 1-2 cm below the soil level. The soil is well tamped, especially near the stem. From the upper edge of the container to the soil level, 3-4 cm are left.
Necessary conditions after transplantation
Dracaena takes root within 1-3 weeks, after which it begins to grow. The process will go faster if it is provided with proper conditions during this period.
Temperature
The plant needs warmth: a stable temperature of +23…+25ºС. After quarantine, it will be comfortable in the summer at +13…+20°С, and in the winter at +8…+10°С. You cannot place dracaena near entrance doors, ventilation openings, or in other places with strong air flow.
Light
The first week the tree is kept in a shaded place. Then it is transferred to the light, but it should be diffused. Varieties with light leaves need more light.
Humidity
It is necessary to maintain high air humidity:
- place the pot in a tray with wet sand;
- spray water near the leaves 2 times a day – morning and evening;
- wipe the leaves with a wet sponge.
Watering
Water the plant with water at room temperature - moderately, without over-moistening the soil lump. Drain excess water from the tray. In the cold season, watering is reduced to 1-2 times in 3-4 months.
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Top dressing
To stimulate the development of the root system, 10 days after transplantation, use the preparations Kornevin (1 g/l) or Zircon.
Trimming
Pruning is done to properly shape the branches. This is done with a clean, sharp knife. The cuts are treated with garden pitch. New buds will appear in these areas.
It is not recommended to combine pruning with replanting, so as not to subject the plant to double stress: new roots are growing at the same time, and the remaining ones are spending energy on forming shoots. The exception is when the dracaena is sick and needs to be saved. The cut top is put to root.
Useful tips
The new pot must be washed with dishwashing liquid.
Owners have a desire to grow 2 or more dracaenas in 1 pot. Often, varieties of bordered and fragrant are planted together. But it should be taken into account that when planting a young plant next to an adult, the large root will not leave nutrients for the small one and will not allow it to develop.
If you plant dracaenas of the same age next to each other, it is difficult to avoid crown deformation.
Therefore, it is better to purchase a separate container for each seedling and combine them in different ways.
To prevent the trunks from bending under the weight of the lush crowns, they are reinforced with bamboo supports.
